10 November 2025: Jim’s Jaunts: Harrison Stickle via Pavey Ark
Distance: 5.2 miles
Time: 3 hours
Difficulty: Medium
Pub: The Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, Great Langdale
There’s something about Langdale that always pulls me back. Maybe it’s the way the fells rear up like old friends, or maybe it’s the promise of a pint at the Old Dungeon Ghyll after a proper scramble. Either way, this circuit’s a belter—and if you catch it on a clear day, you’ll see half the county laid out like a map.
I parked up near the Old Dungeon Ghyll, that grand old farmhouse-turned-inn that’s been welcoming walkers since before Chris Bonington had grey hair. It’s still got the same stone floors and snug corners in the Hiker’s Bar, and they’re still pulling six hand-pumped Cumbrian ales. They plan to stock the new Jennings brews, or so I am told. Any road, the Langdale bitter’s a more than decent substitute. There’s farm cider too, and more single malts than you can shake a walking pole at.
The Route
From the pub, I followed Great Langdale Beck upstream, then turned up Stickle Ghyll, which was roaring after last night’s rain. I always take the left-hand path—it’s a bit gentler and lets you watch the water tumble down in stages. There are waterfalls all the way up, and Isla’s sketch of the ghyll last year still hangs in our hallway at Old Bank House.
At Stickle Tarn, the drama kicks in. Pavey Ark looms like a fortress, and if you squint, you’ll see the line of Jack’s Rakezigzagging across its face. I’ve done it in dry weather, but it’s not for the faint-hearted—slippery, exposed, and not a place to be if the wind’s up. Today I took the safer gully route round the back, which still gives you a good clamber and a cracking view from the top.
From Pavey Ark, it’s a short hop across to Harrison Stickle, the dome-shaped summit that anchors the Langdale Pikes. The final scramble’s a joy—hands on rock, nothing too hairy—and the view from the top is pure poetry: Loft Crag, Pike of Stickle, and the axe-working scars of Neolithic Langdale stretching out below.
The descent skirts the edge of Dungeon Ghyll, where the waterfall plunges into the valley like something out of a Norse saga. Watch your footing—there’s a sheer drop to the right—but the path’s clear and the air smells of moss and peat.
Back at the Pub
The Hiker’s Bar was lively when I got back—muddy boots, dogs under tables, and a fiddler warming up for the Wednesday music night. I had a pint of Langdale and a plate of fish and chips (no frozen nonsense here), then sat by the fire and watched the mist roll in over the fells.
Alternative Jaunt
If you’re short on time or the weather’s closing in, Pike of Blisco offers a cracking 3.6-mile loop with views over Oxendaleand Crinkle Crags. Still earns you a pint.
Thanks again to Isla for the “flattering” sketch of me in my walking gear.
13 August 2025: Back Yam with Jennings
Well, I’ll tell you what—if you’d told me last year that Jennings Brewery would be bubbling back to life in Cockermouth, I’d have laughed into my pint of Sneck Lifter and called you a romantic. But here we are, and I’m chuffed to bits. The old brewery’s been rescued by Kurt and Rebecca Canfield—he’s the engineering brains behind Delkia, she runs Wine and the Wood—and together they’ve brought Jennings back yam, as the locals say.
They’ve not just revived the classics like Cocker Hoop and Cumberland Ale, they’ve brewed up two new beauties: Derwent Mild, a smooth, nutty number with hints of chocolate and toasted grain, and Back Yam, a golden ale with a citrusy nose and a cheeky bitterness that lingers just long enough to make you want another sip. Buster Grant, the new head brewer, knows his hops—and his history.
So, in honour of this resurrection, I’ve plotted a little pub crawl. It’s not just about the beer—it’s about the walk, the chat, and the ghosts of old Lakeland mysteries. If you’ve read The Mystery of the Chemic Tavern, you’ll know Cockermouth’s got secrets in its cellars and stories in its stone. One story I try to forget is when Penny’s cousin Mary came to visit, as my girls recount in the book. But let’s be clear, whatever happened to the beer in that story has nothing to do with today’s wonderful revival.
The Jennings Revival Crawl
Start: Jennings Brewery Taproom, Brewery Lane
Begin where it all began. The taproom’s open seven days a week and serves all six current Jennings beers. Choose one of the brews (I recommend the Sneck Lifter, naturally – rich and malty) and afterwards go down to the river and soak up the views. The water from the castle well still feeds the brew—pure Lakeland magic.
Stop 2: The Castle Bar, Market Place
Head east along Brewery Lane, cross the Cocker, and you’re in the heart of town. The Castle Bar’s a snug spot with oak beams and a roaring fire. They’ve got Back Yam on handpump—pair it with a pork pie and you’ll be singing.
Stop 3: The Swan Inn, Kirkgate
A short stroll south past the chemist (yes, that chemist) and you’ll find The Swan. They’ve got Derwent Mild on tap and a quiet beer garden. Sit a while and ponder the events of Book 4—was it really just coincidence?
Stop 4: The Bitter End, Main Street
Loop back north and you’ll hit The Bitter End. It’s got Sneck Lifter and Cocker Hoop, and if you’re lucky, a bit of live music. The landlord’s a Jennings loyalist—ask him about the old brewing days and he’ll talk your ear off.
Finish: Country walk around Lorton (optional detour)
If your legs are still game, hop a bus or take a longer walk out to Lorton, where Jennings began in 1828. Make sure to pack a few bottles of your favourite Jennings brew and a hearty ploughman’s. Lorton of course is where the fictional Jennings Grange is to be found in The Mystery of the Chemic Tavern, with the “new” Chemic Tavern being the brewery in a barn on site and the “old” Chemic tavern being a family name for the main Jenning Brewery – the Castle Brewery.
So there you have it—six pints, four pubs, one brewery, and a whole lot of Lakeland lore. Jennings is back, and so am I. If you spot me on the trail, raise a glass and say cheers. And if you hear whispers in the cellars… well, some mysteries are best left to the beer. Oh, and thanks to my daughter Isla for the illustration. She wasn’t actually in the pub – but she seems to have pretty good intuition!
—Jim
1 June 2025: I mentioned in my cookery blog that I am an avid fell walker and outdoorsman. I volunteer on the Lake District National Park Service, where I lead the team that keeps the trails safe and open for ramblers. I also enjoy kayaking on the lakes and cycling the open roads. I am a born and bred Cumbrian, with a long family history in the area. Not to be immodest, but I would say I know every inch of the county and have scaled every fell. I may be a stickler for good coffee during the day, but of an evening, in a pub with my mates, I really go for a pint of real ale. I have an especial fondness for Jennings beers which were local to us here in Cockermouth. I was very sad when the Jenning Brewery closed down. But it cheers me up to go on a walk on the fells that ends in one of our fine pubs. So, I decided to keep this blog of my jaunts, for you to try out and enjoy. Here’s a note of our most recent walk during the May Bank Holiday weekend (with thanks to Isla for the lovely illustrations she has supplied for my journal!)
May Bank Holiday 2025:
We were up at 6 and ready by 7 for the drive over to Coniston where we parked in the main car park and went out left along the B5285 passing The Crown Inn and then at the T-junction we turned right immediately after the Black Bull pub and followed the rough track that bends left and then we turned right along the sign-posted path keeping the craggy ground on the left and skirting the base of Yewdale Fells before going into the woods that run parallel to the A593. Then we turned left at the Fingerpost where the path widens and climbed steadily following the signs to Coniston and Yewdale Fells for about 300 meters and then when it swings left there is a narrow trail going off to the right which you climb towards the disused Tilberthwaite Quarries, which I can tell you was a bit tricky and the girls struggled for a bit but managed, so well done, then after you pass the pit, go up the side of Tilberthwaite Gill where the ground will start to drop away and then when you get to the top the path swings left and then keep left ignoring the right hand branch. We then skirted the edge of the Yewdale Fells and came down on the other side of Hole Rake with a really fantastic view of Morecombe Bay. We turned right after the quarry workings and then left for a while along the track that goes to Miners Bridge and then we followed Church Beck all the way back to Coniston and went to The Sun pub for an absolutely excellent pint. It’s a CAMRA pub, and I am a member of CVAMRA, so you know it’s the real thing: https://camra.org.uk/pubs/sun-coniston-187545 Mine was Coniston – Bluebird Premium XB at 4.2% ABV and Penny went for the Loweswater Gold Session Blond Ale at ABV: 4.3%. All hand-pumped of course!!!